We put our heads together

La Orana!

It has been a huge week in Uturoa - up there with a win for Scotland in the 6 Nations Rugby.  Our additional bag arrived at Raiatea airstrip at 5.45am on Saturday morning, a mere 20 days after it was handed over to DHL in Glasgow for their “express delivery” service! To ensure no further hitches, skipper walked to the airport at 5.00am to pick it up in person and was waiting (all by himself) as the cargo plane arrived. A big yellow sticker on the bag declared its’ contents “CLEARED” and without further ado he was allowed to take it away.  What a massive relief. 

Departure at the crack of dawn

The very welcome yellow sign

When I surfaced the scene was reminiscent of Christmas morning devastation with the bag well on the way to being emptied and its’ contents strewn around the cockpit, packaging discarded everywhere!  Spot the dog (sorry if you haven’t read the books) was definitely in the building.  New tools, socket sets, extra fans, additional USB points, rash vests, LED bulbs, Jabsco servicing kits, air filters, mattress covers for tropical climes, replacement marine radio, new sim card for satellite phone… so many new toys emerging from the depths of that long-awaited bag but every now and again an familiar friend too that had made the cut.  Who would have thought John’s old deck shoes, a jumble sale pair of flippers, our ancient potato peeler and equally well used garlic crusher would provide so much early morning joy!

Where to start on our long list of jobs?  As official ship’s plumber (apparently!) the Jabsco Servicing kits were quickly handed over to me. It seems that in his official capacity as Ship’s electrician (who knew?) skipper had several LED bulbs to replace… I ask you, what would you rather do?  In skipper’s defence I did once replace the entire pump unit on Pepe’s toilet but that was simple old piece out, new piece in plumbing with absolutely no diagnosis required.  It turned out that Papillon’s plumbing issues were of a different magnitude.  Papillon’s issues were probably on a scale that merited an entirely new pump on both heads…but that’s not what we had.  We only had 3 service kits of “all moving parts”.  Well…, we certainly got our money’s worth on those service kits because those leaks just wouldn’t stop leaking and, after much diagnoses I can tell you categorically that ALL moving parts were serviced! For those that are interested top valve gaskets, seal housings, piston O-Rings, piston washers above and below, base valve gaskets, flush lever O-rings and Joker valves were replaced on both heads.  It took a lot of skipper crew consultation not to mention our entire week’s data on You tube videos but we did it… and are now the proud owners of not one but two working heads!!  It may have taken the best part of a day and I may have had those sodding pump heads off at least 10 times before it was done, but I cannot describe to you how satisfying it was to solve the problem.  A celebratory beer or two was consumed on Saturday night I can tell you!

 

Ship's engineer

 

Ship's plumber

 

 

Clean as a whistle and fully functioning!

Since then many more jobs have been tackled and the list is gradually being whittled down.  It’s been busy, and sometimes challenging in the heat we have had this week but satisfying too.  Last night was the best night’s sleep we have had since arriving due to the way Malcolm had rigged up the new fans in our cabin.  I was almost cold – needed a sheet over my ankles first thing!  Thierry has also been helping us particularly with some of the mast stuff and continuing engine issues.  He is an absolute wizard around boats and such a funny guy to have on board.  We are so lucky to have been put on to him.  But our time at the marina officially ends in a week and in spite of all the frenetic activity will we be ready to leave?  I’m not sure.   There are 3 outstanding jobs that have to be completed for that to happen but all are slightly out of our control.  The new life raft and hatches (2 to replace the leaking ones) still need to be delivered and we await the return of our hopefully fully serviced water maker back from repair in Tahiti.  If all 3 happen this week and Cyprien, the electrician, finally gets the solar panels fitted to his liking we can go but if not it will be another trip cap in hand to the good Capitaine to ask for more time.

The lovely Thierry hard at work

Wash day on Papillon

But onto other matters.  What else has happened this week because its not all been work?  I went to (watch) my first Polynesian dance class held by, it turned out, a famous traditional dancer from Tahiti, Tumata Vairaaroa.  The class was taking part in a barn the size of a small football pitch with attendees ranging from toddlers holding onto their mum’s hands right up to grandmothers.  Flory and I were the audience. Dress code was a red swishy short skirt, not much on top, and bare feet.  I think there must have been over 200 women in the hall – and I could quickly see why because Tumata Vairaaroa is clearly a master of her craft.  She had the participants going through the basic movements over and over again, first in small groups and then progressing up and down the hall until each sequence was mastered.  Sweat was literally dripping off them and the noise was phenomenal.  Each movement is accompanied by  heavy (live) drum beats and vigorous foot stamping.  The foot stamping appears to generate the necessary power for the hip isolations that comprise a large part of the dance.  This description cannot do justice to those hip isolations -you will have to look at the video -  but they certainly mesmerised me.   The speed and flexibility of each isolation appears as if from nowhere from all body shapes and sizes, all the while accompanied by a still upper body often held in what can only be described as a warrior-like pose. The muscle tone required to achieve all that is ridiculous – certainly beyond me.  It was most definitely a master class. 

And now onto matters foodie.  Thanks for all the recipe suggestions – all very much appreciated.  I just wanted to provide a quick update. Taro has now finally been attempted – thank you Anne T.  It wasn’t fried as suggested because we still don’t have a frying pan but we did boil for the requisite 25min before peeling and then boiled some more in coconut milk.  I can officially tell you that it is indeed delicious.  Well, that was my verdict anyway.  Skipper gently requested, after finishing his healthy portion, that we don’t have the remaining stew “every “ night this week and I notice has bought salmon steaks, potatoes, and green beans for tonight's tea!  Perhaps to offset the Taro or maybe to reward the heroic efforts on the heads I was taken for a delicious breakfast at Utoroa’s only Patisserie this morning.  We could have been in Paris except for the view.  It was a rare reminder of life before Raiatea!

Are we in Paris?

New moon over Papillon

dusk

dawn