What lengths for a new dinghy
La Orana!
This time last week we were sitting somewhat glumly at the “borrowed” mooring in Papeete. The real owner had turned up to ask very graciously if we could leave in the morning and there was still no news of the freezers. What's more the Friday party boats were beginning to assemble reminding us that the weekend was definitely on its way - we were not exactly feeling like celebrating.
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It was at this moment that the phone rang. It was a delivery guy. He had the freezers and would be at the marina in 30mins. Unbelievable. We couldn’t make his rendezvous time, but it was agreed he would leave our boxes at the chandlery which remained open until 4pm. We literally threw everything including ourselves into the dinghy and raced off – well chugged off as quickly as our little dinghy and outboard could manage. 40 minutes later we had reached our destination. Our enormous boxes were sitting on the grass outside the shop under the watchful eye of two assistants having a cheeky Friday afternoon beer in the sun. No ID was required, no questions were asked (this is not the UK!) and with minimal fuss the boxes were wheeled back to the dinghy dock in two shopping trolleys. The journey back was interesting as even without the packaging two freezers present an impressive cargo particularly when navigating the wakes of all the powerboats whizzing by, but the deed is done, and they are now safely installed in the single cabin waiting to be filled.
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Our time at Papeete at the airport moorings was a sober reminder of how long journeys take in an underpowered dinghy. Various solutions were explored during the week but finally we decided to go for it and just buy a bigger outboard from a shop in town. The freezer experience had been too painful to go down the road of China imports again and the cost of a return trip to New Zealand with a large empty bag to buy one there not attractive given our useless attempts at smuggling in tools first time around in January! Buying in situ was slightly more expensive but proved to be a completely hassle free experience (who would have thought it!!). We and the outboard were transported back to the town marina by van, the packaging was all removed and taken away and then the shop assistant even helped us lower our purchase over the seawall into the waiting dinghy below. We never cease to be amazed at the kindness of people here.
A new more powerful outboard is great, but was always going to be too big for our dinghy. Skipper quickly got on the hunt for an alternative. Various yachting forums were scoured for bargains and as luck would have it the perfect one popped up…in Bora Bora. It was old and well used but had a longer keel and was a better make (Highfield) than our current one and…. had the long-envied chaps to protect it from UV – all major upgrades for us. Most importantly it could easily fit 4 people which with visitors arriving had also been on our minds. But Bora Bora… it was 180nm miles away from Papeete – quite a sizeable passage and with the current owner wanting to move on by the middle of the week the clock was ticking. It sounds crazy but we decided just to go for it. Provisioning and water were completed in Moorea and with a favourable 36h weather window and a bag of bananas given to me by a local fisherman at the dock we cast off for Raiatea and thence Bora Bora on Sunday afternoon.
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Just a normal trip to the supermarket for provisioning! |
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The trip back was a breeze – literally! Downwind sailing is definitely more pleasant in a catamaran. I am convinced! Once out into the open ocean we fairly flew along, the waves creaming up beside us. The flying fish entertained for much of the daylight hours. They can be out of the water for up to 20-30 secs at a time whizzing over the surface looking a bit like puffins with the rate they flap their fins. It all seems like an incredible effort….for what exactly?? I can’t make sense of it. Night fell after a beautiful sunset and then it was star gazing using my new app right up until the moon rose just after midnight and my watch was over.
Skipper took the helm during the small hours and then I was up again for the 4-8am shift which I always enjoy as you get to see the sun coming up.
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We were almost at Raiatea by this point and making such good progress that we decided to keep going passing through the lagoon encircling Raiatea and Tahaa and continuing our passage to Bora Bora on the other side. It was another 6 hours but definitely worth the effort as in tune with the forecast the wind was beginning to strengthen – still roughly at our backs but creating much more wave action. The last 3 hours seemed to take an age but finally 26h after leaving Moorea we pulled up at a mooring in Bora Bora lagoon. It felt like a massive achievement justifying a celebratory pint at the yacht club despite breaking all our “no alcohol Monday" rules!
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It’s been lovely being back in Bora Bora. The wind did indeed accelerate so we have been here longer than anticipated but it has been great none the less. Its such a mixture of old and new with the sleek modern cruise ships offset by the local fishermen’s’ boats and lockups.
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The weather has been shocking at times– so much rain that even the jet skiers called it a day on Wednesday but as always, the sun returns, the air becomes clearer, and the views improve. Most importantly the new “old” dinghy is proving to be a hit. She is tatty and could probably do with being taken into the “Repair Shop” for Jay Blades to work his magic on but in his absence, I intend to give it a go myself! Happily, for skipper she goes like a dream with the new outboard. Yesterday we fairly flew across the lagoon to explore a new walk at the south end of the island – another All Trails triumph taking in a hill overlooking the south east part of the lagoon with its pristine beaches and thatched resorts and finishing up with a cold beverage at “Bloody Marys”.
Its all been pretty successful. There is still the thorny issue of what to do with the old dinghy and how to transport her when we do leave but sitting here nursing our drinks in the evening sun it hardly seems important. We will leave that conundrum for another day!
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Glad your boat life is all becoming easier as you acquire the things you need. After two weeks of heatwave here, our summer three week cruise has begun, but with the usual mix of rain (torrential at times), wind and sun. Life on the water; couldn’t be better! If only we had the time… Tracey, at anchor in Isleornsay. xx
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