Waiting for Frigo

La Orana

This week we have been waiting in Papeete for our new freezers to arrive.  I know that sounds ridiculous but we are learning the hard way that purchasing goods from overseas for delivery into French Polynesia is a complete minefield.  So much of the final taxes charged seems to depend on the delivery address and whether it is business or personal.  It's difficult for us to use a personal address so we keep getting hammered by the tax and this time has proved to be no exception.  It’s painful but made worse by the fact that despite receiving  a delivery note almost a week ago the items have still not been released.  The contents have been inspected, the invoices approved, and the taxes paid (on freezers AND delivery from China)… but we still don’t actually know where they are or how we pick them up.  

Airport anchorage with Moorea behind

Plane spotting at the mooring

All this has been a tad stressful particularly as we could not get a berth at either of the Papeete marinas and are currently sitting on a “private” mooring in the lagoon in front of the airport… just waiting.  Every boat that appears up the channel has us holding our breath that this isn’t the actual owner returning to his/her mooring after their latest voyage.  So far, we have been lucky, but it isn’t ideal.  If they do come back, we are resigned to anchoring but this area is busy with boats and the depths higher than we’d like so we’re keeping fingers and toes crossed that this particular owner stays away.

Definitely not up for grabs

Canoe training with Moorea behind

In the big scheme of things there are worse places to wait.  We have spectacular views back across the sound to Moorea, the mooring comes with no additional rodents or mosquitos, it provides glorious sunsets, multiple turtle sightings and a continuous breeze free of charge and IF you are an avid plane spotter there is an endless source of entertainment right across the water.  BUT it is a long way away from everything so even the tiniest job becomes an epic adventure.  This morning we dinghied 40mins south down the channel to Taina Marina,  put in a load of washing at the laundry, walked to Carrefour to buy food while the clothes were washing and then dinghied back to the boat.  The trip took nearly 4hours!!! Yesterday we went 40mins the other way tying up the dinghy at an impossibly high sea wall at Papeete Marina.  I was left in complete disarray on the public footpath when I finally manged to roll over the top. At least it was only 7am but confused joggers were still having to pick their way over my quivering limbs!! All this ignominy to dump 3 bags of rubbish, check the validity of the marina’s claim that no berths were available (correct!) and in the absence of any clean clothes go to the equivalent of Primark for extra T shirts, shorts and underwear supplies.  Another 4h epic.  Its no wonder we’re tired and just want to move on.  Goodness knows what the collection trip will be like for these freezers.  We aren’t even sure if they will fit in the dinghy alongside skipper and his mate.  If it’s a multi trip journey this could be more of an epic adventure than some of our boat delivery trips in Argyll!   

Desperate purchases in the absence of clean clothes

Not tempted by the Lagavulin prices in Carrefour (£110)

But there have been upsides to this week as well which I will finish on. 

We have found a beautiful quiet anchorage in Moorea, very handy for the ferry across to Papeete, airport arrivals, Champion shopping, fresh water and pubs with a happy hour.  This one could be our go-to place for all future visits to Papeete.

The season for Polynesian Canoe racing is fast approaching so the first mate has much enjoyed watching the crews at close quarters training on the lagoon.

Mixed team

Big chap going it alone

The first mate had her first experience of phoning Tahiti air traffic control on channel 12 for permission to cross the extended runway line en route to the airport anchorage – all accomplished in French with a little help from google translate. Well almost.  I thought he said the coast was clear and to carry on through but on reflection what he actually said was to stand by on channel 12 for the OK. I switched back to channel 16 and we just kept chugging up the lagoon short of the extended runway line.  As we did so a plane landed right in front of us.  At that moment Papillon got called on channel 16 (that’s never happened before!) – would we please switch to channel 12.  I did so and was told we were clear to proceed.  Did he guess I had misunderstood first time around?  Almost certainly but I still take it as a win!!

Our experiments with the Rainman water maker seem to be nearly over.  The last thing we ruled out was their claim that the local water temperature was the problem.  Using a bag of ice purchased ashore to cool down a bucket of seawater and our infrared engine thermometer to take the temperature readings we were able to show that the ppm readings were completely unchanged.  They finally admitted defeat and are now offering to supply an alternative machine. This one will run off AC electricity so depends on our inverter but hopefully it will be better.  

We have seen no cockroaches for 9 days!

We have clean sheets for the first time in a month!! 

As good as a hotel

Sunset on the lagoon in Papeete

As I’ve said before – “it’s the little things”