Bastille Day - Polynesian style

La Orana! 

It was Bastille Day in Raiatea this week – another excuse for a holiday parade and another excuse for celebrating Polynesian culture in all its glorious technicolour. 

Watching for the parade to start

One of the dancers

It was only by chance that we coincided with the celebrations. We had returned to the Raiatea moorings to rid ourselves (and Papillon) of boatyard dust and had completely forgotten the date but the blue flashing lights and wail of sirens greeting us as we arrived in town that morning gave the game away. Police cars, ambulances and fire engines were trundling up the main street being politely clapped on either side by a packed audience. With the civic duty out of the way enthusiasm levels began to rise and the Polynesian part of the parade could officially begin. I positioned myself beside a marquee sheltering some of the more elderly Raiatea residents on rows of little green plastic chairs. From behind they presented a sea of fresh flower wreaths and garlands complimenting their colourful outfits and elaborate tatoos. VIPs perhaps as this section of the crowd were treated to a series of dancing and singing displays each one temporarily halting the progress of the parade behind. The performances were enthusiastically welcomed with much waving and communal singing. I was particularly taken by a group of teenagers from the Marquesa’s. These are the most northerly archipelago in French Polynesia and are over 1500 miles away from Raiatea. Such a long way to come to share their unique style of dance. It was very moving. 

Dancers from the Marquesa's	Enthusiastic dancing from closer to home
Shell decorated dancers	More impressive head gear

But it wasn’t all singing and dancing. Sporting achievements were also cause for much celebration with successful rowing crews marching alongside their suspended Polynesian canoes, football and volleyball teams waving American style sporting trophies above their heads and representatives from every sports club on the island marching in step behind, all being cheered and clapped wildly by family and friends. The finale was a procession of florally decorated vehicles: babies in buggies, toddlers on tricycles, teenagers astride jet skis and full drum groups doing their thing on trolleys pulled behind tractors. The crowd went mad. 

Winning team with mascot	Another proud team
One of the drumming groups	New look for a bike with stabilisers!

The last float was a flatbed truck carrying the King and Queen of the Bastille Day parade kitted out in full warrior dress. The truck was completely hidden by foliage with the regal pair seemingly surrounded by a man-made jungle. The King descended to take part in the final dance display, but the Queen remained motionless, staring proudly ahead until the procession finally moved on again and the parade was over. It had been quite a sight. I’m so glad we didn’t miss it.

 

Decorated Buggy	Happy day
King and Queen of the Parade	Foliage on the front of the flat bed truck!

The second unexpected event to happen this week was a chance meeting with skipper’s boss’s boss from JP Morgan. We had been enjoying a wonderful sail down the west side of Tahaa when a message came across the VHF. “Beduin, Beduin this is Happy Days, Happy Days Channel 17 please, over”. Skipper thought he recognised the boat name, so we nosily switched over to channel 17 and sure enough Chris was speaking on the radio. What were the chances? We knew they were in the Pacific but not less than 3nm away! We moseyed down the west coast of Raiatea to anchor close by and then uninvited motored over to Beduin to say hello. What a welcome we received. Beers and stories aboard until dusk and all this from a guy who had worked in offices on the other side of the Atlantic and who had only actually met Skipper a couple of times in the flesh. Sailors are indeed a friendly bunch. I hope we can reciprocate the hospitality before they strike out for Suwarrow in the North Cook Islands (one on my wish list) in the next few weeks. 

Circumnavigating Tahaa

Sunset over Bora Bora

Currently we won’t be returning any hospitality as we are in Huahine well east of Raiatea. After weeks of Easterlies the wind turned Northly yesterday and a snap decision was made to make the most of it. We were here last with Duncan and the crossing took 6 hours. Yesterday we did it in under 3, flying along at 7-8 knots. It was a great crossing. The weather hasn’t been kind since, very overcast and wet but it’s been lovely coming back. The fish of the day at the yacht club made a tasty change from spinache risotto and yesterday a lady swung by the boat selling bananas so that was breakfast covered too! All being well we will go back across tomorrow. The wind has come round to the South East which should make for an easy crossing. We may also have two new crew mates as were approached at the yacht club this morning by a young couple wanting to crew their way back to Raiatea. We had heard this happens quite a lot out here but so far have not experienced it. We will probably say yes. Company is always good and if the wind is strong a few extras (youthful) hands onboard will be welcome. Watch this space for how we get on. 

Drying our clothes after a dinghy ride into town

Skipper trying out his new blender in Huahine

And finally, this week our visas (kind of) came through. The waiting has been agonising. Despite assurances from the Commissioner himself our Carte de Sejours still remained under investigation on 13th of July with our current visas expiring on the 17th July. We were fast approaching the holiday weekend- stressful didn’t come close! Numerous emails were sent back and forth on Thursday and finally at close of play two “Recepisses” arrived in my in-tray. Recepisses are a temporary visa that are valid for 6 months until the Carte de Sejours finally comes through. These ones were not even the real Recepisses but it was something to show the gendarmes should they make another trip out to the boat (as they have done once before!). The actual ones arrived on the 17th . They do not let us return to French Polynesia should we leave so we still need the CDS to come through before our trip home in October but at least we’re not illegal migrants and hopefully the next wait will not be as bad. I’m not sure I can take much more suspense!

Homemade hats for Bastille Day

Pure joy