Firing on all cylinders some of the time

 

La Orana!

Boats are fickle creatures, and it seems Papillon is no exception.  After almost two weeks of me coughing like a “Mongolian throat warbler” (as skipper so very kindly described it) we finally felt ready to leave the mooring last Saturday and attempt the 50-60 nm circumnavigation of Raiatea.  It should have been straightforward.  The wind was predicted northeast backing southeast later in the week making for an easy sail down the west side followed by a sail back up the east coast as and when the wind decided to turn. With an embarrassment of anchorages to tempt along the way what could possibly go wrong?  It was true our autohelm was giving us cause for concern and the headsail repairs still had to be fully tested but that’s boats for you – if you waited until they were perfect you would never go out.  

dinghy dock at "Jean Jacques"

Cormorant watching our departure

After our enforced staycation we were excited to be sailing off the mooring and nothing was going to dampen our spirits. If you aren’t a sailor, I’m not sure how to describe the satisfaction of getting from A to B entirely under sail.  There’s a purity to it which is just very pleasing.  Threading our way through moored boats off the boatyards and weaving around the rickety pearl farms perched on their tiny reefs we slowly made our way south to Passe Rautoanui.  This pass was a new one for us but wide and easily navigable under sail.  It is guarded on the north side by the most beautiful Motu we have seen yet – a long sweep of white sand and coconut palms lapped gently by turquoise waters all around.  

fixing up the pearl farm shed

Ile Tahunaoe

Out on the open sea conditions were more lively and ideal for an (almost) downwind sail to Passe Toamaro.  The lagoon on this side of Raiatea is navigable in shallow draft boats but the route so tortuous that most sailors traverse in and out through the multiple passes making ground out on the Pacific.  It was good to be on the ocean again and we fairly flew along enjoying the wind for as long as the mountains allowed.  But as their height increased so the available wind decreased and by the time, we reached the pass it was virtually a flat calm.  

mountains on the west coast giving a flat calm

happy skipper under sail

Skipper called for the engines.  I pushed the starter button and nothing... only an ominous silence.  It was no better the second time.  The starboard engine was completely unresponsive.  Nasty moments in a narrow channel with breaking waves either side.  It was only at this moment that skipper remarked it had been a bit “slow” the previous time of asking!!  Not exactly the information I needed to hear!  Fortunately, catamarans have two engines and the port side one got us through with no further drama, but the rest of the afternoon was taken up investigating the problem -  Skipper performing contortionist movements inside the engine compartment and me trying to hand him the correct tool as required.  It was hot dusty work and sadly unsuccessful, but we did at least manage to narrow down the problem to a faulty contact in the starter motor relay switch.  

swim time after the work

and another beautiful sunset

Thierry was called and agreed to see us on Monday morning at 7.30am back at the town dock.  All hopes of a circumnavigation were off – this was going to be a there and back trip.  Disappointing but all was not lost.  Our anchorage turned out to be almost directly opposite the dinghy dock of one of the most highly rated restaurants in Raiatea!!  Meals out have been a rarity recently so this was an opportunity not to be missed and what a treat it proved to me.  I could start with the food but instead will share a random observation because our very delightful waiter was a man dressed as a woman. This is not uncommon here. “Mahu” in traditional Tahitian culture are third gender persons with traditional roles within the community – one per village in previous times but a more common sight now and entirely acceptable.  In Uturoa there is a strikingly tall Polynesian man who blows the conch shell to herald the arrival and departure of the tour boats.  He boasts multiple body piercings and tattoos, wears garlands around his neck and hair and always dresses as a woman.   Our waiter on Saturday night was performing a slightly less traditional role but just as expertly! We were served a truly delicious meal – Polynesian starter and main course followed by exquisite French patisseries for dessert.  A place to be recommended for future visitors!!

Jean Jacques

fishing in the lagoon outside

The next morning we woke a little sluggishly to brisk southeasterlies – not the calm weather that had been predicted but perfect for retracing our steps north.  Our destination was the town dock, a cramped busy space not to be recommended for tight manoeuvring with only one working engine.  To put off the inevitable and to rouse some courage in the quavering crew a “Dream Yacht Charter” mooring just short of the dock was retrieved and cups of tea brewed.  The going rate for a night's borrowed mooring had been a 6 pack of beer but apparently this has changed.  Within a few minutes a speed boat was dispatched from the marina and we were very politely asked to move on.  The wind was howling by this time but at least the town dock looked relatively empty of traffic.   If there was ever a moment to put on my “big girl pants” this was it! With fenders and ropes in place Skipper reached for the engine starter buttons – miracles of miracles the starboard engine spluttered into life.  The sailing gods were with us after all!!  With two working engines the task was immeasurably easier, and we glided into a space on the dock looking like a couple of pros!  

tied up at the town dock

boats still out at sea

It was most certainly a cause for celebration and last night’s bottle of red was quickly uncorked, but we had hardly toasted the moment, when a security guard appeared.  Smiling all the while he pointed to a very official notice under the trees informing us that mooring up at the town dock is now only possible between the hours of 6am and 4pm.  The conversation was entirely in French, but I don’t think he could have told us off for breaking the rules more charmingly!   I explained the faulty engine situation and he immediately retracted everything waving vaguely across the road to some buildings where I would be expected to pay for our stay in the morning.  With a cheerful wave he was off to have exactly the same conversation with two other catamarans that had come in behind us.  What a convivial chap! A excellent example of how the Polynesians put their own particular slant on French style bureaucracy!

another one of the dinghy dock

the palms are in bloom!

And a quick update on matters arising.  Thierry sorted out the starter motor on Monday morning.  It turned out it was a corroded wire in the relay.  I had less success paying for the mooring, however.  After gate crashing 4 possible buildings in the hand waving vicinity and explaining our plight to a least 6 perplexed people, I was no further forward and decided to retreat while my dignity was still (almost) intact!

plenty rainbows this week

and deserted Motus