Scottish summer in the Society Islands

 

La Orana!

The rain persists – now into its third week.  According to “Met Bob” it’s all about the "South Pacific Convergence Zone" pushing troughs closer to French Polynesia than normal.  New terms to me but if I was on my “holiday of a lifetime” I would not be happy.  For us its an interesting interlude but for tourists it must be so disappointing.  No azure skies and turquoise seas for them.  It's 50 shades of grey (no pun intended!) as far as the eye can see and that’s not very far! 

turquoise colour of the lagoon

coral on the beach

Indeed, we are attributing the behaviour of "Wind Spirit", a luxury cruise ship operating out of  The Society Islands, to the dreich conditions.  We had noticed her because after coming through one of the passes into the lagoon she was clearly gaining ground on us as we sailed north back towards Uturoa (in heavy misty rain I should add).  From where we were sitting she seemed intent on overtaking.  As the “stand on” sailing vessel our only obligation was to “maintain course and speed” but Wind Spirit had a different interpretation of the law.  As she drew alongside, dwarfing us by her presence, we were informed on channel 16 that she was turning to port imminently.  5 blasts on the ships horn smartly followed signalling the same intention ( just in case we hadn’t understood?) – Rude! Since she had effectively blocked our only sailing option to starboard, we were reduced to furling away the sail, engaging the engines and making a very tight 360 degree turn all under the watchful eye of a deck load of very disappointed world cruisers.  I maintain it was done to create a diversion for them, but Skipper was very unimpressed particularly as that imminent turn to port did not happen for another 10minutes by which time we would have been long gone!!!

calm after the latest storm

more storms approaching

For us the rain has not presented huge problems, but the strong winds have been challenging.  After enjoying a weekend of ridiculously calm weather on the reef southeast of Raiatea, conditions changed dramatically on Monday morning.  We had returned to the coral for a spot more snorkelling when darkening clouds appeared to the south.  The temptation was to stay as the light was amazing, but good sense prevailed, and we raced back to the anchored Papillon barely reaching her before the storm hit us. 

storm approaching

It was wild, wild, wild; torrential rain and gusting winds upwards of 30 knots.  Unpacking the now bouncing dinghy at the stern was challenging shall we say but made even more interesting by an alarm sounding from “Anchor Watch”.  “Anchor Watch” is yet another useful App that warns you when the boat has drifted back more than a set distance.   We have used it for years set to 50m, but this was the first time the alarm has actually sounded.  It was reading 85m and rising.  Fortunately, we were anchored on  the equivalent of a 2m deep football pitch so there was little cause for immediate concern, but it was not pleasant.  More chain was quickly deployed, and the anchor dug in with no additional fuss, but it was a sombre reminder of the importance of always setting an anchor watch however benign the conditions appear to be. 

skipper explores

new growth on the Motu

Since then, I don’t think the wind has actually stopped blowing.  We are now safely back in Uturoa secured to a mooring ball, but essentially storm bound. A couple of trips ashore have been attempted but hanging on to the tender as we bounce through the waves getting soaked by all the spray may be exhilarating for some but not my idea of fun.  I got so drenched and windswept this morning that the lady in Apetahi suggested a patisserie to cheer me up.  I think I looked like a drowned rat!!  Mind you even the Polynesians have not been their normal laid-back selves today. The few that had braved the conditions huddled in groups around the dock, shoulders hunched against the wind looking utterly dejected. It seems bad weather gets to even the sunniest of people!! For us it’s just like a typical sailing holiday in Scotland, so we are prepared for hunkering down!  My knitting project has resurfaced, various jobs have been tackled on board and we have read a lot of books!  Things could be far worse!!  Well, in actual fact they almost were...

leaves on the beach

rainbow over the lagoon

It was late and I was reading in bed when Skipper called down to say he could smell burning.  Fire is like your worst nightmare on a boat and the smell of burning was undeniable.  We went round every plug, battery, and electrical appliance on board trying to track it down but with no success.  Finally we had to admit defeat.  As a precaution we turned everything off  but it was very disturbing and little sleep was had by either of the crew.  This morning in the cold light of day we figured it out.  The projector had been tossed to one side (by someone who will remain nameless)  against a plastic bag containing the film screen ( we take our film entertainment VERY seriously on Papillon!).  We think the heat of the projector had melted the bag a little hence the smell.  It was yet another sombre reminder of how careful one has to be on a boat but probably the best outcome we could have hoped for.  An electrical fault would have been a completely different proposition. 

coral at the reef

admiring the reef from above

But onto happier experiences.  Having spent most of Sunday celebrating 35 years of marriage snorkelling around coral heads and admiring the reef from a small hill on the east coast called Matarepeta, it was pleasing to find that “Coral” is assigned to this particular anniversary.  

relaxing on deck

ditto

What were the chances and who knew?  Not us...obviously but what a let off.  No presents required as the presence of coral was more than enough!! We celebrated in style at the Opoa Beach Hotel, sundowners on the beach followed by a delicious meal inside. This place is a mass of twinkly lights after sunset.  They reflect in the still waters of the lagoon and pick out water features and flowering shrubs in the gardens all around.  It looks effortless but I’m sure all are meticulously placed for the ultimate relaxing experience. If our attire counts for anything the relaxing vibe was clearly working - Skipper in his swimming trunks and favourite Polynesian shirt and me in a second-hand floral number from a local flea market complemented with a shell necklace; both bare footed.  Would you even recognise us? I doubt it.  Whether we intended it or not, for better or for worse this place is changing us!

twinkly lights	celebrating in style
Opoa Beach House restaurant	the one and only good sunset this week

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