Strange happenings at the Equinox

 

La Orana!

Strange things have been happening on Papillon this week.  I’m blaming it on the equinox which also gets cited for the continued unsettled weather but skipper rubbishes that idea as “an old wives’ tale” (oddly appropriate after last weeks celebrations!) and suggests I’m just overexcited for the arrival of our visitors on Monday.  Has the man no soul?? 

beautiful sunsets

and sunrises in Raiatea

It started on Sunday.  We had popped into town to do some shopping and returned to find a frankly gigantic inflatable buoy attached to our mooring ring. Had someone observed my latest attempts at retrieving the mooring?  Was this an attempt to make my task easier? Seriously, that was my first thought, but it turned out our additional buoy was marker number 2 in a swimming course stretching from one side of the lagoon to the other. For the next hour or so swimmers splashed past accompanied by their support/safety teams on a mixture of paddleboards, kayaks, Polynesian canoes and the odd dinghy.  Loud horns were sounded as each competitor reached the mark and whenever any seemed to be veering off course.  It may not have been a peaceful Sunday morning but it was certainly an exciting one for us.  After the last of the adult swimmers the race became a relay event for kids with one of the baton handovers being at Papillon’s buoy.  Analise was the first swimmer to arrive.  She looked exhausted but was being cheered on heartily by family and friends in the boat alongside.  “A-na-lise, A-na-lise” – even I was caught up in the chanting.  As she passed the buoy the next swimmer who could hardly contain their excitement dived in to take her place.  The support party went wild. Analise dragged herself into the boat and lay panting on the deck – what drama!! She looked about 8 or 9 – no wrapping kids in cotton wool in French Polynesia!! I do wonder what the sharks made of it all!! 

our enlarged mooring ball and passing swimmers

last few metres for Analise

Talking of marine creatures, the next weird event I need to describe concerns the fish we found in the port cabin one morning.  I was on my way to the freezer to get a baguette when I nearly stood on her little silvery body.  She must have jumped through the porthole which we usually leave ajar.  The opening is small and at least 1.5m above the water line – that is one athletic flying fish!  Sadly this (surely) record breaking aerial journey proved to be her last and she was returned to the deep as shark fodder thereby completing the circle of life. 

don't leave your windows open!

surprising visitor

Our own efforts at athleticism have been somewhat hampered by the weather recently.  We continue to walk the hills on a regular basis, muddy or not but daily exercises on the deck have proved to be more problematic particularly in the high winds.  Have you ever tried doing "Trikonasana" in a force 6 – not to be recommended and certainly not pretty.  Instead, we have finished a lot of stupid little jobs in anticipation of our visitors.  The squeaky old toilet pump has been replaced and additional USB ports and fans installed in the guest suite (!), lights have been reinstated, bilges sorted out, and final dinghy repairs completed.  It’s been a busy time.  Our last task was to change the position of the main sheet attachment on the boom.  It was essentially too far forward and needed to be moved further back.  We waited on a quieter day as hanging off the boom in a strong wind is probably not to be recommended for wrinklies, and between skipper’s height and my abilities as a contortionist, we managed it.  The new position was tested with a sail up the west side of Tahaa in (finally) glorious sunshine. It went perfectly and was so beautiful up there that we decided to drop the hook and enjoy the sunset.  Time constraints are a thing of the past for these cruisers, and we always welcome a change of scenery even if it is in the company of super yachts! 

super-yacht plus helipad at Tahaa

Bora Bora from Tahaa

Since then, we have motored back down to the southern most tip of Raiatea and made use of the southeasterlies to sail north to Huahine where we will meet our visitors on Monday morning (did I mention that already!!).  We arrived at the main village of Fare yesterday in fairly breezy conditions.  As the moorings were all occupied we motored over to an area where we had anchored before.  The place looked encouraging except for a woman in the water who appeared to be swimming right into our intended spot.  We slowed down and so did she essentially treading water exactly where we wanted to be.  A stand off ensued and we waited…and we waited.  Finally, she gave up and swam back to her catamaran which was on one of the moorings at least 6 boat lengths away…the extremes some people will go to stop you anchoring anywhere in their vicinity is verging on the insane. If I hadn’t seen her, she might have become propellor fodder.  On the back of this episode, it was suggested that I could adopt this protocol the next time a charter boat motors in too close to Papillon.   I’m sure you agree…yet another excellent suggestion from skipper.

changing weather en-route to Huahine

gloomy skies in Huahine

Our anchorage position in Huahine was (finally) perfect but we had forgotten that internet reception on this side of the island is patchy.  Not a problem per se but with two rugby matches approaching with important consequences for Scotland’s world cup progress it was decided that we would continue round to the east coast the following day.  “Windy” our weather app was saying very quiet dry weather in the morning with rain to follow in the afternoon.  We set off optimistically at 8am.  The wind did seem quiet and the sea state calm but that quickly changed as we turned along the north coast.  A plane was landing into strong head winds at the airport and on the water the swell was probably the biggest we have yet encountered – not pleasant with only the engines for power but much improved when we could raise the sails.  This was achieved without drama but while on the foredeck I realised I could no longer see the boat hook.  With spray washing over me I searched and searched beneath the anchor chain channel on the trampoline but with no success.  I was gutted.  We had spent the better part of an afternoon repairing that boathook.  Had she really been washed overboard? I returned to the cabin deflated to nurse yet another cup of tea only to see the wretched boat hook now bouncing about on the trampoline outside! Had I mentioned that weird things have been happening this week?   

After a very lively sail  and passage through Passe Farerea we finally dropped the sails in the lagoon  and motored south towards the mooring buoys.  Approaching in deepening gloom the inevitable happened and the heavens opened.  Our visibility was almost instantaneously reduced to nothing. I could scarcely make out the moorings let alone successfully retrieve one.  It's at times like this that one is grateful for a good pair of waterproof binoculars and the reappearance of a reliable boat hook! 

Air Tahiti flight to Huahine

boathook on the trampoline

As I write this, we have just warmed ourselves up with a couple of boiled eggs and multiple slices of liberally buttered French baguette.  During the time it took to boil those eggs and butter the bread we have collected over 25l of water.  I wasn’t exaggerating.  It is a downpour!! There may be no sun to make water today but who needs a water maker when it rains like this!!

it never rains but it pours

water collection...and then some!