Marvellous Maupiti

 La Orana!

It’s hard to know where to start this week. Completely unexpectedly we have dropped the hook in Maupiti, the most westerly of the inhabited French Polynesian islands.   It wasn’t the plan; it wasn’t even on our radar, but the stars aligned and…”et voila!  Nous sommes ici! ”  

Kids cycling home	Fishing boats at ease
Terei'a beach	Tahitian church in Pete'i

Maupiti is an atoll rarely visited by cruisers.  It's geography is challenging to say the least.  The single pass into the lagoon runs south to north between two long motus.  It is subject to a continuous outgoing current that can run as high as 9 knots depending on the height of the waves crashing over the reef to fill the lagoon inside.  Added to this, any southerly component to the wind or swell can singly or combined create treacherous conditions at the entrance which must be avoided altogether.  Since  south easterlies prevail in this part of the world it is a rare weather window when access to Maupiti opens up and even then, provisioning must be considered carefully as cruisers write of being stuck inside the lagoon for weeks waiting for the wind to change!  In high season when the trades are running strong it is virtually impossible to come here but during cyclone season the trade winds can abate temporarily giving way to light and more variable wind patterns.  One such weather window appeared to be forming last weekend.  It was looking promising so on Sunday we made the decision to up anchor in the south of Raiatea and set sail for Bora Bora 40nm away.  We needed to go anyway to check out the mooring situation, but Bora Bora is also the best spot to hover whilst waiting for a Maupiti weather window to develop.   

Passe Onoiau from Mt Te'urafa'atiu

Maupiti lagoon

We spent an exhausting and hot day in Bora Bora "hovering".  Freezers were filled, a new starter battery installed, the satellite phone was charged and the diesel topped up all the while checking the weather nervously.  By nightfall light northerlies were still promised for several days to come and we committed to at least giving it a go.  The next consideration was when to leave.  The passage from Bora Bora to Maupiti is approximately 30nm but entry into the pass is only recommended at slack water or on a rising tide when the incoming flow slightly offsets the outgoing current.  Because Maupiti is located close to an amphidromic area it is subject to solar rather than lunar tides – meaning it experiences a tidal schedule that never changes.  High tide is always around noon and low water around 0600 so with this in mind it was decided to leave at daybreak and aim to arrive around 09.30.

Leaving Bora Bora at daybreak

Maupiti in sight on the horizon

Slipping our lines at 04.30 and gliding gently through Passe Teavanui on the west side of Bora Bora was a little surreal.  The volcanic plug of Maupiti could be seen hazily in the distance.  I could hardly believe we were actually going.  This place has been on our wish list for months.  The wind was blowing approximately 8-10knots from the northeast and the swell remained slight.  It was all looking good.  I was on the helm for most of the way and was treated to two sightings of bluefin tuna leaping out of the water – not as big as dolphins but still huge.  I didn’t even realise that tuna could do this. What first caught my eye was their silver bellies glinting in the sun but it was their startlingly blue backs flashing through the air that impressed the most.  Apparently, they jump to confuse predators.  What was lurking beneath those waves?  Probably best not to ponder!  

Bora Bora now far behind

Maupiti lagoon

We motor sailed the whole way with a freshening breeze and slightly confused sea developing.  The predominant swell was from the north but skipper felt there was an additional southerly component which was concerning.  We pressed on. As we approached Passe Onoiau from the east it looked unnavigable even with the binoculars.  It appeared as if waves were breaking all the way across, and it was hard to believe an entrance would ever reveal itself.  At the last moment a narrow strip of water came into view, large breaking waves on either side for sure but definitely a passage of water in-between.  Skipper took the helm, the mainsail was dropped, and I assumed position of navigator.  Papillon was smartly turned onto a course of 5 degrees north and there was no turning back!  It was nerve wracking being in such close proximity to breaking waves in such a narrow channel, but we were reassured by locals speeding by in their brightly coloured fishing boats greeting us with cheerful waves.  It seemed we had timed our entrance correctly.  Navigating around the dog leg at the head of the channel we were overtaken by the incoming “Maupiti Express” – more waving from passengers and crew!  Again, we must have got our timings right!   

The overtaking Maupiti Express

Coral decorations in Maupiti garden

It was an amazing feeling entering this utterly breath-taking lagoon so far out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. How can I even describe it? The volcanic plug of Mt Te'urafa'atiu soars over a turquoise lagoon fringed by 7 deeply forested Motus.  There is no development.  The island voted against it years ago so rather than hotels dominating the landscape the motus are empty save for the locals’ ramshackle single-story houses and their fishing boats. At anchor we watch a continuous stream of small boats coming and going across the lagoon as people gently go about their daily business.  

house and boat on Motu Tuanai

More boats but on the main island

Everyone is friendly but not overly so and virtually all are Polynesian.  There seem to be very few French locals and very little French language is spoken.  What I have heard is with a strong accent that I struggle to understand.  A little girl came to chat to us at the dinghy dock yesterday.  In response to my simple question, she appeared to reply that she was 40 years old.  When I queried this, she fell about laughing and sharp as a tack added that her little sister was 80.  I retorted that I must be 5000 years old then.  Fortunately, at this point her mother called her home as she was still shouting  “J’ai dix mille ans” from her bicycle as she pedalled off – this was a joke that could run and run!  

Immaculate gardens in Maupiti

6.30am outside the bakery

Humour it seems comes easily here.  I went for bread yesterday.  The advice was to arrive early and sure enough by 6.30am it seemed as if the whole island had turned up for the event.  The road was rammed with cars and pickup trucks and large groups of people were gathering in ragged queues outside.  At 7am sharp the doors opened, and we all shuffled into a dark space, a long counter stretching the entire length of one side.  A rack of bread was just visible at the far end. It took a moment to acclimatise.  The noise and bustle were quite overwhelming.  All around me large Polynesian men and women laughed and joked in the gloom all in Tahitian.  There was no jostling for position, just good humour and bread bags that were being tossed at the assistants from all directions and then miraculously returned to the correct owner with multiple baguettes inside. The system was indecipherable to the untrained eye.  I didn’t even have a bread bag with me, and I only wanted 2 baguettes - a pathetic effort!  A man behind took pity and attempted to help me navigate the scrum.  I turned to thank him and asked if this happened every day.  “Bien sur”  he replied looking a bit surprised.  “Tu dois vraiment aimer ton pain" (you must really love your bread)  I said.  He burst out laughing and patted his ample stomach.  “Nous aimons manger de tout ici" (We love eating everything here) he replied!!  This fact has not escaped our attention! There may not be many recognisable shops but multiple food stalls line the road serving up locally caught fish of the raw and cooked variety, the petrol station does a successful side line in Maupiti’s very own banana bread (delicious by the way) and the arrival of the supplies ship on Thursday was celebrated with  a huge BBQ and the odd Hinano (local beer) on the pier.  It was a “total rammy” as somebody who will not be named has often been heard to say.   What will happen on Christmas Day?  I have no idea but watch this space!

Rock plants

Sunset over the lagoon