More of Maupiti

 La Orana!

We finally left Maupiti yesterday after 10 glorious days exploring.  We didn’t want to leave but rations were low, alcohol stores non-existent (more later) and clean clothes a thing of dreams so it was time.  Like all the best holidays it had come to an end before we were ready.

 

Mt Te'urafa'atiu

 

Chez Mimi at Terei'a Beach

 

Maupiti from Passe Onoiau

 

Motu Auira

We had arrived in gloomy weather.  The colours were muted, a mixture of greys, cool blues and moss greens.  It felt a bit like Argyll at times.  We walked the 10km perimeter of the main island, waded across the lagoon to explore Motu Auira and Motu Tiapaa, traversed the high road and even braved Mt Te’urafa’atiu in the mist.  At times we were drenched to the skin… but it was still beautiful…and always warm.  

 

Skipper wading to Motu Auira

 

Motu Tuanai

Exploration of the lagoon by dinghy was treacherous.  The dull light turned the water a uniform shade of naval grey masking the coral bommies below.  We picked our way between them at a snail’s pace finally reaching a snorkelling area at the north end where you could drift through the pass on the current between Motu Tuanai and Motu Paeao.  The fish were not as brightly lit as sometimes but the coral was teeming with them.  On the shore children played in the shallows while their parents attended to boats or chores or just chatted in the rain.  Out of the gloom a new boat appeared.  Much excitement on shore and about 10 of the kids clambered aboard to be whisked away for an excursion.  The rain was certainly not deterring them!!  And it didn’t really deter us either.  We loved the stillness of this place and its authenticity...but then on Christmas morning everything shifted.  The day dawned with slight southerlies and the most glorious sunrise.  As the sun got higher in the sky the  colours all started to change.  Now all we could see was dazzling blues, greens and golds all around.  It felt like a completely different island.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A28FxdRaAcM

 

Christmas morning sunrise

 

Santa's little helpers at the dinghy dock

We celebrated the weather with a new ascent of Mt Te’urafa’atiu.  The climb is steep, mainly through the rain forest but revealing a taste of views to come from rocky outcrops along the way.  At the top there are multiple rope sections to help you up almost vertical cliffs.  It was alarming to discover how frayed some of these “helpful” ropes had become after we had suspended our weight from them … but we survived and eventually scrambled up the last slabs of larva to the top.  The views of the island were spectacular; huge patches of shallow turquoise water sharply abutting against the darker blues of the deeper lagoon, Passe Onoiau snaking its way between Motu Tiapaa and Motu Pitiahe , golden sand promontories extending out from each of the crisp green Motus encircling the atoll and 372m below us the church bell ringing out to welcome in the congregation on Christmas morning.  

 

Summit and Passe Onoiau

 

Snorkelling Passe

 

Happy campers

 

On top of the world

In Tahitian churches the bell ringing starts early but it was still going to be tight.  I had set my heart on attending the service but despite our best efforts we were running late…and when we finally did stumble out of the forest onto the road leading towards that bell ringing we were covered in mud and sweat. Fortunately, Maupiti is serviced with water taps all the way round to supply drinking water to the island so some of the debris could be washed off, but we were still a disgrace compared to the locals rocking up adorned with flowers, immaculate floor length white dresses for the ladies and crisp Sunday shirts for the men.  We decided to sit outside on the benches under the open windows and enjoy the harmonies from there.  I hope you enjoy the sound as much as we did.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQICn1TCEaw   

I must add that we were urged to come in by several members of the congregation, but it couldn’t happen.  How do you explain in Tahitian that we smelt too bad?

 

Church with open windows

 

Gutting fish in the lagoon in front of the church

The rest of the day was spent swimming eating and drinking.  As the sun began to set, we were surprised by a dinghy tying up midships and a head appearing above the gunwale.  It was Austrian George in an extremely tight pair of swimmies .  “Anyone for scuba!” jumped to mind but no he was just over for a chat and  a drink to celebrate the festive season.  Since we didn’t have his preferred tipple on board we were invited over to his.  We said we would follow and then wondered what to bring.  Skipper was all for packing the last bottle of wine AND the precious whiskey, but I restricted it to the wine and thank goodness I did as once aboard it quickly became clear that none of George’s crew/guests/friends (not sure of their status) knew we were even coming.  They were eating their dinner and promptly glugged down the bottle of wine we had somewhat awkwardly put on the table. Skipper and I retreated to seats at the periphery, skipper enjoying a conversation with the beautiful Fabien, a Wharram Catamaran builder back in Croatia who had actually sailed (naked) with James Wharram and his partner Hanneke Boon before he died, and me with George and all his stories.  Mainly we discussed Maupihaa which is an atoll 100nm southwest of Maupiti.  It seems I misled you last week as Maupihaa takes the honours for the most westerly inhabited atoll in French Polynesia and not Maupiti.  It wasn’t always the case but when the French government realised its existence 12 miles west of the official territorial border, they paid 9 people to go and live there and claim it as French Polynesia.  That was 20 years ago.  Since then, the population has fluctuated between 8 and 18 but they no longer get paid to be there and the subsidised supplies boat has been stopped.  Money raised in kind from the copra harvest pays for an alternative boat to come once a year.  Otherwise, the people live off fish, terns’ eggs and fruit and whatever carbohydrate passing cruisers can bring out to them.  The chief has a satellite phone for use in a medical emergency and that’s it.  You will not be surprised to hear that Maupihaa is now very high up on my island wish list!!

 

Hammocks on Motu Auira

 

Exploring the high road ("La Traversier")

The last two days of our time in Maupiti was spent on a second anchorage out at the reef near to Passe Onoiau – a better position for sunsets and a better position to visit the manta ray cleaning station in the lagoon.  These are entirely natural areas where the giant ocean manta rays come in to get their parasites removed by “bluestreak cleaner wrasse”.  Once we witnessed these gentle giants in action it became clear that what I have been referring to as manta rays in previous blogs are actually the much smaller stingrays (my apologies).  Manta rays can be as big as 7m across and 9m long and quite literally dwarf you as they swim around getting their parasites hoovered up by armies of tiny blue fish. It was an incredible experience to witness nature in action like this and a very fitting way to end our wonderful time in Maupiti. The video will follow but all that remains to be said is Happy New Year to you all.  We will be the last to the party as usual but will be wishing you all the best for 2024 at 10am UK time on January 1^st!

Dawn at Passe Onoiau

Sunset on the reef