The little things

 

Ia Orana!

This week has been one of mixed emotions: the frustrations of attempting to sell a boat, the limitations of what you can and can’t do whilst trying to make it happen and the realisation that our time here is coming to an end. We fluctuate between wanting the sale successfully completed and willing it to fail spectacularly! 

Sunset at the mooring

Moments before the green flash!

Our emotions seem to mirror the highs and lows of living in French Polynesia.  It is certainly not the easiest place to start the cruising life, but it is probably one of the most beautiful and welcoming. Thursday was a case in point.  Our water maker had failed again.  It had been fine since the new impeller and then for no good reason suddenly refused to start the flushing cycle.  We decided to try an alternative power source.  The only one we knew of that would fit a UK adaptor plug was back at the marina.  Like so many decisions here there actually was no choice to be made.  With the clock ticking on those membranes for the second time in a fortnight everything got wrapped in plastic and loaded into the dinghy for the 20min  ride ashore – not trivial with a precious cargo of over 40kg (the water maker not the crew!) and winds gusting above 30knots.  We were completely soaked by the time we arrived.  Skipper’s trunks had torn enroute (quite dramatically!) and my bikini was so waterlogged that a gazelle-like jump ashore had them in danger of falling off around my ankles.  It was not a pretty sight.  In our bedraggled state we staggered off to the laundry room and assembled the kit.  I thought we would be stopped.  The power supply was not ours to use after all and with much of the water maker too big for the room and causing an obstruction on the pavement outside we were not exactly invisible, but it was just the usual round of “Ia Orana, Ia Orana” from all the Dream Yacht Charter staff - a normal day in Paradise it would seem. Dramas are not a big thing here - it is so refreshing! 

Pony rides at the Agricultural Show

Biggest bunch of bananas competition and new tractors at the show

Unbelievably, the water maker started like a dream.  High fives all round.  From being in the depths of despair we were suddenly elated. The membranes were saved, and the water maker was OK.  It was huge.  We still have to figure out the power issue, but this was a big win.  Yet another emotional roller coaster of a day with a good ending.  Sitting in the cockpit with a celebratory beer to hand we reflected on what we were going to miss about our lives here.  Obviously, the sailing part will be a huge loss.  Exploring these islands has been nothing short of a very precious gift but the list I’m going to share is comprised of much smaller things.  The everyday events that together have combined to enhance our lives here and which will be sorely missed on our return.   

Tiare Apetahi

The Southern Cross

1.      Glorious Sunrises and Sunsets:  There have been so many it’s hard to know what makes a perfect one.  Often, they seem to come out of nowhere.  The globe of the sun appearing or disappearing behind the horizon followed by rainbows of colour flooding the sky. In the morning it’s all goldens and blues, in the evening pinks and purples. The difference to home is the vast horizon and the dramatic cumulus clouds lining up in the distance reflecting the colours all around.   Every day a different and unique show. 

2.     Stars: Whether the moon is full or completely absent the stars here have been spectacular.  Such displays every night.  With the help of star gazing apps,  we are better able to identify some of the more common constellations, but the Southern Cross remains my firm favourite.  There is something so defining and reassuring about it as the four points arc over the sky every night. 

3.     Exercise time on the deck: This may seem like a surprising choice but standing up front  watching the world go by, favourite tunes at the ready and not a soul to bother you certainly beats going to the gym!  Cross waves from passing boats and perpetually strong winds combine to increase the level of difficulty and many a time a balance has ended up in the trampoline below but it’s really not a bad way to end one’s day and will not be easily replicated back in the UK

Skipper doing his crunches at dawn

Poor imitation of "Downward Dog"

4.      Friday night beers enjoying BBC Sounds:  This has become quite the ritual aboard Papillon.  At 5pm sharp jobs are tidied away; the dirt of the day is washed off under the shower and fresh T shirts and shorts extracted from the precious pile of clean clothes.  Cold beers and crisps are waiting on the cockpit table and here we sit watching the sun going down listening to a satirical take on the week’s events at home.  Whether it be Dead Ringers or the News Quiz this has proved to be the perfect way to end our working week.

5.      The Reef: The gentle rumble of breaking waves is a continual reminder of the reef beyond; our barrier between lagoon and ocean and habitat for so much marine life below.   At first it seemed like an anomaly.  Waves breaking towards you rather than away, football pitch sandy shelves to drop the hook on but no beaches. Everything seemed back-to-front - a bit like a mirror image of the shoreline at home.  It took a while to acclimatise but we have come to love everything about it: the snorkelling, the anchoring opportunities, the motus, the passes, the marine life and the coral surface itself. It is a thing of beauty.

6     Flowers:  The flowers here are outrageous: audacious colours that defy all convention, growing in the unlikeliest of places throughout the year. They feature strongly in Polynesian life.  Potted varieties decorate meticulously tended gardens, garlands are placed around travellers necks "Manava" - welcome to Polynesia, palm fronds interlaced with vibrant blossoms decorate the party boats,  brightly coloured wreaths adorn men and woman’s heads on high days and holidays and single blooms peak out from behind ears whatever the day and whatever the line of work.  Traditionally the  splendidly odorous Tiare Apetahi is the one to use but as this plant only grows at the higher limits of Mount Temehani on Raiatea many other varieties feature.  Flowers are enjoyed and revered here and for me have been a complete delight.   

7.      Polynesian People:  Walking into Champion this morning I was greeted with a high fives by Gustaf our favourite supermarket attendant.  Despite the queues he wanted to know how I was, how my French was improving and to wish me a good day.  Nobody waiting in the somewhat chaotic queue behind was harrumphing. Instead of pushing forward they quietly chatted amongst themselves.  It is the way here.  People never appear rushed always making time for conversation and laughter.  It is a good way to be I think and something that we will try and take home with us. 

Hibiscus

Plants for sale at the agricultural show

8.      Dinghy rides: As you all know dinghy sagas have featured heavily in this blog.  There is nothing worse than a badly behaved dinghy but when it all goes right there is nothing better.  That moment when the dinghy achieves “planing speed” lurching forward to sit on top of the waves rather than following their contours still gives me goosebumps.  Speeding home over the lagoon in the evening sun, pleasantly weary from a hike ashore, still relishing the long shower you have just had at the marina is one of the best feelings in the world. 

9.    Sea breezes: Sometimes the winds here are relentless it's true but when you get the gentle breezes coming in, warming your skin as they waft over you, cooling the boat and keeping the insect life at bay, they are delicious!

10.   Morning Coffees:  Whether enjoyed on deck or at the Apetahi Patisserie this is a special moment in the day.  On deck it is all quiet and peaceful, in Apetahi we are entertained by the morning rush of tour boats,  fishermen selling their catch at the quayside, school kids and workers disembarking from local ferries to start their days. Conch shells are blown as the boats come and go and people meet and greet enthusiastically.  So much life and it’s still only 7am in the morning!! What’s not to enjoy!

So that was our top 10 but before I stop a short update on the boat sale.  We have Etienne the Frenchman from Papeete coming to view on Saturday.  If that goes nowhere, Nick from Hawaii has also been in touch.  Papillon is apparently his "dream boat", and he would like to fly over to Raiatea in the next couple of months, give us the cash (his price not ours and “no banks necessary”) and sail her home  - a mere 30 day passage.  There are dreamers the world over but as he was emailing us at the time from a yacht delivery between Hawaii and Japan maybe he is for real.  We shall see!

Unconventional anchoring	Moon rising
Purple sunsets	The beautiful lagoon